Journal article
Event-based validation of swell arrival time
H Jiang, AV Babanin, G Chen
Journal of Physical Oceanography | AMER METEOROLOGICAL SOC | Published : 2016
Abstract
The arrival time of ocean swells is an important factor for offshore and coastal engineering and naval and recreational activities, which can also be used in evaluating the numerical wave model. Using the continuity and pattern of wave heights during the same swell event, a methodology is developed for identifying swell events and verifying swell arrival time in models from buoy data. The swell arrival time in a WAVEWATCH III hindcast database is validated with in situ measurements. The results indicate that the model has a good agreement with the observations but usually predicts an early arrival of swell, about 4 h on average. A histogram shows that about one-quarter of swell events arrive..
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Awarded by Australian Research Council
Funding Acknowledgements
The model data are from Ifremer (ftp.ifremer.fr/ifremer/ww3/HINDCAST), and the buoy data are from NDBC (www.ndbc.noaa.gov). The authors thank Dr. Henrique Rapizo for finding that swells are often delayed with respect to the forecast in his surfing life. This work is supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (41331172 and U1406404). AVB acknowledges the Australian Research Council Discovery Grant DP130100227 and the U.S. Office of Naval Research Grant N00014-13-1-0278. The anonymous reviewers are greatly appreciated for their helpful suggestions.